testing brakes using 12 volt battery charger

If you use 12V directly to the brakes, you will be blocking them hard!
Kind of using the breakaway switch.

If you do have a breakaway switch (and a 12V battery connected to the
trailer) you are better to use this. Make sure you don't have the tow
vehicule connected to the trailer. pull the breakaway switch and you
will hear the magnet snap. you shouldn't be able to turn the wheels
once engaged on the breakaway.

In my opinion, it would be better to get a Brake Controller installed on
the tow vehicule and test the brakes using a controller.

Mel

Post by JB
This so cool! I am excited being a new trailer owner.
I just bought a used Dutchmen '96 popup for the family. I am very
mechanically inclined, however, electrical and this popup thing is all
new to me.
My trailer has electric brakes. Just picked it up over the weekend. I
have read in many post how to test my brakes with a 12 v battery
charger.
My charger has a 12volt setting...simple enough. I figured set my
charger to 12volts. On my 7way connector on the trailer, I see a blue
wire for brake. Do I connect this to my positive on the battery
charger? Where do I connect the negative connector on the battery
charger, on the frame or dont connect to anything?
This is my first step in testing my brakes.
Next topic to learn, turning on my propane heater. The trailer had no
manuals to explain how the trailer works.
Thanks all...hope to see you camping :}

AustinMN

2005-10-19 13:02:59 UTC

Post by meldx
If you use 12V directly to the brakes, you will be blocking them hard!
Kind of using the breakaway switch.

Nothing wrong with this.

Post by meldx
If you do have a breakaway switch (and a 12V battery connected to the
trailer) you are better to use this.

Might be easier, but better? How?

Post by meldx
Make sure you don't have the tow
vehicule connected to the trailer. pull the breakaway switch and you
will hear the magnet snap.

Not always. If the magnets are already against the drum, you won't
hear anything.

Post by meldx
You shouldn't be able to turn the wheels
once engaged on the breakaway.

This is definitely true. If they're working, they are meant to stop a
speeding trailer, way more force than you can apply by hand.

Post by meldx
In my opinion, it would be better to get a Brake Controller installed on
the tow vehicule and test the brakes using a controller.

Dutchmen trailers tend to be small (i.e. light). If they are not
working, he may not want to bother getting the controller. IMHO,
having trailer brakes is always better than not having them, but I
could see him not wanting to spend $60 for a cheap controller if he
then has to pay $50 for new brake magnets.

meldix, I don't recall seeing you post with such poor grammar before.
Did you post this after staying up all night or something? It seems
out of character.

Austin

meldx

2005-10-19 13:55:26 UTC

Post by meldx
If you use 12V directly to the brakes, you will be blocking them hard!
Kind of using the breakaway switch.

Nothing wrong with this.

did I say something was wrong???

Post by meldx
If you do have a breakaway switch (and a 12V battery connected to the
trailer) you are better to use this.

Might be easier, but better? How?

You are more certain that you won't mess up with Positive and Negative,
ground, and choosing the good hole from the 7pin connector. Also you are
sure you'll be sending the good voltage to the magnet

Post by meldx
Make sure you don't have the tow
vehicule connected to the trailer. pull the breakaway switch and you
will hear the magnet snap.

Not always. If the magnets are already against the drum, you won't
hear anything.

Probably true... mine have always snapped when I tested this way

Post by meldx
You shouldn't be able to turn the wheels
once engaged on the breakaway.

This is definitely true. If they're working, they are meant to stop a
speeding trailer, way more force than you can apply by hand.

At least I got this one OK :-)

Post by meldx
In my opinion, it would be better to get a Brake Controller installed on
the tow vehicule and test the brakes using a controller.

IMO, if the trailer has brakes, use them

Post by AustinMN
meldix, I don't recall seeing you post with such poor grammar before.
Did you post this after staying up all night or something? It seems
out of character.

No, I posted this morning... can't figure where my grammar was so poor,
but this may be because my first language (written and speaking) if
French and probably end up having some bad translation!

Mel

Post by AustinMN
Austin

a***@yahoo.com

2005-10-19 15:11:16 UTC

Thanks for the help, both of you

thank you for educating me....especially

I wanted to test the brakes using a 12V battery charger because I have
not purchased a controller yet. By the way, I am leaning towards a
Tekonsha Prodigy unless someone has a better sugestion. I wanted to
test the brakes so I can buy the controller and any brake parts I
needed at the same time.

Could someone answer my other question? If I connect the positive
clamp on the battery charger to the blue brake wire via 7 way trailer
connector, what do I do with the negative connector on the battery
charger. The battery charger has two leads; postive and negative.
Doesnt the negative lead on the battery charger have to be connected to
something...this is my important question.

Second, will I damage my trailer brakes if I use the 12V battery
charger? I plan to jack up the trailer and spin the tires. I want to
use the 12volt battery charger to see if the brake clamps work. If
they don't then I will take the drums off and do further evaluation. I
just want a way to asses the condition of the trailer brake.

My whole objective is to purchase all the parts in one shot so I am
trying to assess the condition of the brakes.

I have a Toyota 4Runner. I am fairly sure this is a negative ground -
not that I am familiar with the term. Do I have to worry about this
when I hook up my controller and breakaway switch? Can someone verify?

meldx

2005-10-19 17:12:47 UTC

Tekonsha is the way to go!

as for the positive and using teh charger... I am really not sure...
that's why I was proposing alternate solutions.

12V to the brakes will not damage them, but from the charger...don't
know (technically, if connected properly (which is the main issue here),
should not!)

There is probably a way to use the 7pin connector to bring 12V to the
brakes, if the pop-up is plugged in 120V, usually the converter sends
12V to the 7Pin. that's how I able to run the running lights at night
by jumping with a fuse Pin 4 and 3 (I think it's 4 and 3...black and green)

would the same apply to black and blue?? to run the brakes??

Mel

Post by a***@yahoo.com
Thanks for the help, both of you
thank you for educating me....especially
I wanted to test the brakes using a 12V battery charger because I have
not purchased a controller yet. By the way, I am leaning towards a
Tekonsha Prodigy unless someone has a better sugestion. I wanted to
test the brakes so I can buy the controller and any brake parts I
needed at the same time.
Could someone answer my other question? If I connect the positive
clamp on the battery charger to the blue brake wire via 7 way trailer
connector, what do I do with the negative connector on the battery
charger. The battery charger has two leads; postive and negative.
Doesnt the negative lead on the battery charger have to be connected to
something...this is my important question.
Second, will I damage my trailer brakes if I use the 12V battery
charger? I plan to jack up the trailer and spin the tires. I want to
use the 12volt battery charger to see if the brake clamps work. If
they don't then I will take the drums off and do further evaluation. I
just want a way to asses the condition of the trailer brake.
My whole objective is to purchase all the parts in one shot so I am
trying to assess the condition of the brakes.
I have a Toyota 4Runner. I am fairly sure this is a negative ground -
not that I am familiar with the term. Do I have to worry about this
when I hook up my controller and breakaway switch? Can someone verify?

Frank Tabor

2005-10-19 19:00:14 UTC

Post by meldx
Tekonsha is the way to go!

Prodigy is a much better controller, while more expensive, it's the
closest you can get to a true proportional brake controller without
going bankrupt trying to buy it.

--
Frank Tabor

Rich256

2005-10-19 19:17:52 UTC

Post by meldx
Tekonsha is the way to go!

Prodigy is a much better controller, while more expensive, it's the
closest you can get to a true proportional brake controller without
going bankrupt trying to buy it.
--
Frank Tabor

Prodigy is a Tekonsha.

Frank Tabor

2005-10-19 19:34:51 UTC

Post by Rich256

Post by meldx
Tekonsha is the way to go!

Prodigy is a much better controller, while more expensive, it's the
closest you can get to a true proportional brake controller without
going bankrupt trying to buy it.
--
Frank Tabor

Prodigy is a Tekonsha.

You're correct, I wasn't paying attention.

--
Frank Tabor

Rich256

2005-10-19 20:57:49 UTC

Post by Rich256

Post by meldx
Tekonsha is the way to go!

Prodigy is a much better controller, while more expensive, it's the
closest you can get to a true proportional brake controller without
going bankrupt trying to buy it.
--
Frank Tabor

Prodigy is a Tekonsha.

You're correct, I wasn't paying attention.
--
Frank Tabor

So I am not the only one with that problem?

Actually for a small trailer any of their units would be good. I have an
Envoy and it is a very good control but presently I have the Prodigy. More
important now as the trailer is rather heavy and I make use of the boost
setting.

My thought is that the cost difference is only about $40 so might as well go
with the Prodigy.

The Jordan Ultima is an excellent control. I think a bit more complicated
to install.

http://www.jordanbrake.com/

Rich256

2005-10-19 17:35:40 UTC

Not much you can determine by testing the brakes when sitting still. Your
charger might not be able to deliver enough current.

Anyway, the negative of the charger would have to go to ground. Pin 1 of
the connector or just the chassis.

You didn't answer the question as to if you have a trailer battery.
If you do you should have a break away switch.

You really need a controller to test the brakes. Then pulling it at a slow
speed and using the manual lever you should be able to lock up the wheels.
Trailer brakes are usually not a problem.

Better still, you should pack your wheel bearings. Then you will get a
look at the condition of the brake pads.
It is recommended at they be packed every year.

AustinMN

2005-10-20 18:47:25 UTC

Post by a***@yahoo.com
Thanks for the help, both of you

Not sure I helped...but I'll try now.

Post by a***@yahoo.com
I wanted to test the brakes using a 12V battery charger because I have
not purchased a controller yet. By the way, I am leaning towards a
Tekonsha Prodigy unless someone has a better sugestion.

The Tekonsha Prodigy is by far one of the best. The only thing I know
of that might be better is the Jordan Ultima. But the Ultima is
definitely more expensive and more involved to install.

Post by a***@yahoo.com
I wanted to
test the brakes so I can buy the controller and any brake parts I
needed at the same time.

More important than testing them with 12V would be inspecting them.
Someone suggested repacking the bearings. This gives you direct visual
access to the magnets, so you can see if they need replacing, which may
be the case even if they function normally. The magnets wear, just
like the shoes, but not as fast. Eventually, they reach the point that
they will short out. You can't tell if they are near that point just
by testing.

Post by a***@yahoo.com
Could someone answer my other question? If I connect the positive
clamp on the battery charger to the blue brake wire via 7 way trailer
connector, what do I do with the negative connector on the battery
charger. The battery charger has two leads; postive and negative.
Doesnt the negative lead on the battery charger have to be connected to
something...this is my important question.

Connect the negative lead to any bare metal part of the frame, but
first make sure the trailer isn't connected to anything. In other
words, make sure the trailer is unplugged.

Post by a***@yahoo.com
Second, will I damage my trailer brakes if I use the 12V battery
charger?

Not unless you leave it on for a long time, whatever that is (15
minutes or more?). If one of the magnets is badly shorted, that could
cause wires to melt or overload the charger. You will be doing the
test without a fuse (unless you rig something). A 10 or 15 amp fuse
would do.

Post by a***@yahoo.com
I plan to jack up the trailer and spin the tires. I want to
use the 12volt battery charger to see if the brake clamps work. If
they don't then I will take the drums off and do further evaluation. I
just want a way to asses the condition of the trailer brake.

All you will really be assesing is the circuit. Excess or uneven wear
can still exist even if the magnets and activator arms work the way you
expect them to.

Post by a***@yahoo.com
My whole objective is to purchase all the parts in one shot so I am
trying to assess the condition of the brakes.

I understand. There is nothing like having to make 5 trips to the
parts store for a stupid 1-hour job. Not that I've ever done that.

Post by a***@yahoo.com
I have a Toyota 4Runner. I am fairly sure this is a negative ground -
not that I am familiar with the term. Do I have to worry about this
when I hook up my controller and breakaway switch? Can someone verify?

Most, and maybe all, American-made vehicles are negative ground. Most
imports are now, too. Positive ground is the exception to the rule,
and is extremely rare nowdays.

What I'd like to know is what we are all going to do when GM goes to 42
volt electrical systems.

Austin

Tom J

2005-10-19 19:09:33 UTC